…all good things…

Lofoten - I now understand why many said I must go

Though storms prevented my initial journey, delays and a growing anticipation made my long-awaited encounter with mythic Lofoten all the more meaningful. With my initial perception(s) of Norway’s history, politics, social policies, and hydrocarbon extraction practices modified over time – my arrival at Lofoten was a bittersweet one, steeped in many a month of discussion and debate regarding Norway’s future with regards to its resources… including its human ones. Though my honeymoon with this Northern country is very much over, I am still left quite in awe of “the Nature”- along with an honest affection and respect for many of the people that I have met here.

However, only now at the end I do see that Norway, along with other countries I have explored (including Canada), does not have a single magic solution to current or long-term resource development concerns – even though Norway is quite well-respected internationally for its approach(es) and prior success(es), and rightfully so in many cases. Rather, once the stoic “barrier” attributed to many here is broken, their often (very) candid commentary contains serious questions, uncertainty, and outright dissatisfaction with Norway’s present course and future direction - with dissatisfaction flowing from a multitude of different valid perspectives. However, the questioning is also coupled with the hope that Norway’s future continues to bring resource wealth without detrimental ecological costs, and with a fair distribution of benefits – be they on a country-wide, regional, or more individual basis. This is most certainly true for Lofoten, for the debate over Lofoten’s future has not ended – but has rather been delayed with formal decisions regarding drilling postponed until at least 2013, though cabinet will continue “informal information gathering” until then (Reuters, March 11, 2011). A spotlight perhaps then is shared, or shifts to the Barents Sea region – and the hydrocarbon development interests that both Russia and Norway have in an area which recently saw the formal end to 40 years of negotiations between the two Arctic countries… and so it goes.

The small sheltered bay of a lake near Å... a place full of mist and magic where one immediately feels the duty to tread lightly

Having seen the arresting beauty of Lofoten I can empathize with the concerns of many – and not just the ecological ones. I can see a desire to maintain a “traditional” livelihood provided by the sea while also tapping what lies beneath it for the betterment of Lofoten’s communities, and I have discussed the reality of employment and the familiar move of youth away from small communities to the allure of the “big city life” in Oslo and Bergen. Put simply: Northern regions require support, and a migrating population (which also includes many international immigrants filling a variety of “undesirable” positions) makes for a sobering moment of reflection regarding Lofoten - and Norway’s future. Though the older ways still exist, they are not as practiced as they once were and it is undeniable that hydrocarbon development will bring economic benefits and a movement back to areas being depleted of a restless youth – though how much and for how long remains to be seen. Hard decisions will be made, and I wonder who will be most satisfied, for the impending choices can pull the same individual in many directions – let alone the variety of special interest groups, political parties, or affected social/ economic/ and ecological entities. I will watch Lofoten closely in the future, for I am curious to see what choices are made, and what social/ economic/ and ecological equilibrium – if any, Lofoten and Norway are able to achieve.

Shelter...

... offers protection during lunch - while still providing a view of the troll-harbouring countryside

Many I talked with expect hydrocarbon development as an inevitable part of Lofoten’s future, and just as I have attempted to learn and appreciate perspectives regarding resource exploration and development in Canada, I see that Norway is not removed from the reality of being a ”work in progress.” This reality is further accentuated as the want to develop the vast resource potential in the North continues to grow – just as multi-year ice continues to vanish. The beginning of what some have referred to as the new “gold rush” is a distinct possibility in the Arctic, and this along with other questions posed during the 5th Arctic Dialogue conference (the time of my initial cancelled Lofoten excursion) remain for me – as does the post-Macondo reality associated with Arctic exploration. Norwegian oil production continues to decline, and as Terje Riis-Johansen, Minister of Petroleum and Energy mentioned in 2010 (accessed Norwegian Petroleum Directorate’s webpage):

“For nearly 40 years, the petroleum activities and the revenues they have generated have contributed to growth, employment, technological development and social welfare at a pace and scope that would not otherwise have been possible…”

“Even more important, though, from our vantage point in 2010, is to look ahead. The future development of the Norwegian society will continue to be inextricably tied to our petroleum activities. The next 40 years will be at least as challenging – and just as crucial – as the years that are now behind us.”

Rain clears - and the temptation to keep exploring the Tolkien-esque country, as always, remains strong...

...but adventure is not always needed, and the walk back home remains a satisfying one - in country unreal, and like something out of dream

Humble home in Å

"A la playa" - and though beautiful neither water nor air are particularly warm...

... but the international company during a partial eclipse most certainly is. One of those inspired moments often found while traveling - and shared with friendly Mexicans, Ukrainians, Poles, Russians, Americans, and almost surprizingly also a Norwegian or two

I wonder what course the next 40 years will take – for Norway is certainly in a very, very privileged position. Norway has been extremely fortunate with regards to the initial discovery and subsequent development of hydrocarbons – and though 500 billion has been thoughtfully “put away” to ensure a high standard of living and a bright future, the debate on how best to use the petroleum fund is a constant topic of debate. I have met many from an older generation who remember the 60′s when Norway “had nothing” and they have shared their belief that the hydrocarbon boon will not last forever as nothing is ever assured. I have met masses enamoured with consumer culture oblivious to any economic / ecological / social concerns – for they are very well taken care of in Norway and need not worry. Most damming perhaps is the comment that people have become lazy and that many act like a “spoiled child” – with the ultimate fear that Norway will squander the resources (natural and human) that it is most lucky to have. However, along with the litany of criticisms I have heard, I have also been fortunate enough to meet dedicated students as well as older mature individuals who are very well aware of the muli-faceted issues facing Norway, and I have seen their concerted effort(s) to gain knowledge both at home and abroad in order to be well informed and prepared for the never-ending decision making process. International collaboration and cooperation continue to take place – and there is certainly a possibility that direction towards a strong future will be charted successfully. My initial naive perceptions have been tested, and questions certainly remain for me at the end of my exchange. Though my hope remains at the end of my journey, it is tempered by a fear that it is easier to live in ignorant bliss when one’s life contains little worry or struggle – for the privileges found in Norway (and Canada for that matter) are not found in the majority of the world… but they are desired… and they come at a some cost.

A cathedral / necropolis - walk under the drying racks (or hjell) used for stockfish production (primarily cod), central to the Lofoten economy

The dried fish is graded accordingly, and the high-quality fish are sold (largely) to Italy, where they are used for traditional meals and are much-valued

The more aromatic heads are also dried, and used as flavouring for soup stock in Nigeria

War museum in Svolvær - full of disturbing artifacts from a dark time in Norway's, and the world's, history

Life progresses in an often strange fashion, and though all things must end – I do accept that I have remained enveloped by an interest in the Canadian North, though my perspective has most certainly shifted to a circum-arctic one. My playground has expanded thanks to the opportunities and encounters in Norway, and though I believe that this part of my journey has come to an end, my want for exploration is certainly not over. I was very fortunate to have Fate smile upon me to be able to take advantage of the nascent relationship building between the University of Alberta School of Business, and the School of Business at the Universitetet i Nordland, and I am quite happy to have been the first from the U of A to spend a full term in Norway – for I have gained from the exploration.

A farewell to Svolvær - late-evening departure to Tromsø aboard the MS Lofoten, which the Fates decided was the ship I was to take instead of a more modern vessel

The classic ferry was built in 1964 - and was small enough take a short detour and enter the narrow Trollfjorden...

... turn around slowly and continue the overnight journey to Tromsø, during which I slept like the dead below decks - lulled by the gentle roll and pitch, and serenaded by the throbbing innards of the old ship

An encounter with a modern Hurtigruten ferry - a portal on an experience I missed, and one that I am most thankful I did, for I believe I am the richer for it

Another older ship of note - The Fram, stout and sturdy vessel which carried Roald Amundsen to both polar regions, and now finally at rest in the Fram Museum on the Bygdøy peninsula in Oslo

Old skis and bindings - which have touched the South Pole, and are part of the wide array of the well-worn gear found at the Fram Museum

The sail of the time machine Kon Tiki - a watershed moment, for I had read Thor Heyerdahl's tale of Pacific adventure as a child

Intricate and well-preserved beauty at the Viking Ship Museum in Olso

The Oseberg ship - an ornate vessel buried with a woman of some renown, perhaps to aid her journey to distant shores

Magdelane and part of a saved Stav church entrance - but a part of the globe-spanning collection of exquisite artifacts at the Historisk Museum, or Cultural History Museum in Oslo

Portal carvings which demand attention - and prepare one for entrance into a different world

Another door is shut - and a time locked away and preserved as a memory

So at the end, a thanks to the students, and academic and support staff at the Universitetet i Nordland, the Bodø Graduate School of Business, and High North Centre for Business, as well as to the varied inhabitants and travellers in Norway I had the fortune of meeting during my meanderings – you’ve all made this experience a very full and rich one indeed, and I have many fond memories. Special thanks to Anatoli Bourmistrov and Jan Oddvar Sørnes for all of their efforts in allowing me to attend a number of events – you made my introduction to, and departure from, the UiN all the more memorable. Thank you everyone – Tusen takk.

Finally a thanks to those who have perused my words and images – I do hope that some were at least somewhat interesting… and perhaps will inspire others to go on an exchange themselves. It was a perfect end to my MBA experience, as the journey outwards also provided me with a view inwards, and I am very glad I took the opportunity which was offered to me, and am very grateful to those who helped me during my journey.

Safe travels everyone. Take care.

Ha det bra.

Cheers.

Free to wander

Pictures are worth a thousand words…  though some images fail to describe the moment… and only a precious few can leave one speechless. Here then is a selection from wanderings which included: the national celebrations in Oslo on the 17th of May, the eerily inviting Borgund Stave church (walking distance from Borlaug), sleepy and time-defying Lærdal, the spectacular Nærøyfjord UNESCO World Heritage Site near Gudavagen, the historic Flåmsbana train journey from Flåm to Myrdal, and finally hauntingly beautiful snow-laden Finse. Now that my academic responsibilities are over, my exploration has taken place in earnest… with Lofoten calling… and call received. Pictures from that beautiful land in my next blog – after I take a bit more time to organize myself now that I’ve also returned from a brief journey there, and now have some down-time during a last stay in Oslo. Rain-soaked hiking in troll-harbouring countryside in Å, viewing the parital eclipse in international company on a sandy beach blown by cold winds, to a stay on the classic 1964-built MS Lofoten during a lovely voyage to Tormsø (which included a detour into the narrow Trollfjord) – the wait for Lofoten was well worth it. I’m most thankful I’ve seen (but a fraction) of Norway, and been touched by Nature’s moods and feel of some of the land… for the weather though not perfect, was honest. My only real lament is that the images simply do not capture the beauty of varied experience(s)… but memories remain.

Early beginnings to the May 17th parade in Oslo

Part of the children's procession, composed of multiple schools - highlighting the diverse youth of Norway

Crowds and enthusiasm in Oslo not unlike Ottawa on Canada Day

Procession at Parliament...

... and onwards to the Royal Palace

"Into the Storm" on the Place grounds

Aftermath

Bus to Borlaug

One of the many sheep fences in the countryside

The Borgund Stave-Church, with timber for it first felled in 1180

A striking silhouette...

... and one which needs ongoing care and restoration, via the activities of the Norwegian Society for the Preservation of Ancient Monuments

Cross-braces named after St. Andrew, who was crucified on a diagonal cross

One of the major uprights - or "staves" capped with carvings of human faces...

... or animal motifs

Detail of altarpiece painted in 1654; note prominence of Mary Magdalene on the right

Front door detail... haunting, and certainly touched by different time

Along the walk back to Borlaug Hostel via the "old highway"

Architecture at home in the surrounding environment

The lush land in Lærdal

The woods are lovely, dark, and deep

Apple orchards - not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Norway

Room with a view at the Sanden Pensionet - a stay that reminded me of a time in a classic home in St. John's

A picturesque street - and great place for a quiet pint

Simple beauty - timeless

The weather darkens - and old wood creaks and moans low

Morning breakfast under welcome sun post-storm...

... with local jams to complete the fine stay

Queen Elizabeth docked at Flåm - a floating hotel somewhat out of place, even if it does bring many to a worthy experience

But a fraction of a shocking journey though an UNESCO World Heritage Site...

... where pictures simply cannot capture scale nor the feeling of being in the presence of something truly special in the Nærøyfjord

A section of "the bunkers" at Gudavagen - where German soldiers once found places to hide and find a perfect line of sight down the fjord, and where goats now feed under the wind-swept trees

On deck in the cool air - where conversation and photography finally end, and silence and scenery flow

Upstairs at the Ægir Brewery in Flåm - home to a variety of excellent, excellent brews crafted with the help of a Canadian Brewmaster (and given the thumbs-up by a German Brewmaster enjoying pints of unfiltered flavours no less)

Onboard the Flåmsbana - one of the world's most distinct rail lines

Part of the original road up to Myrdal, and an indication of the technological challenges the railway faced with regards to elevation and topography

Gaps in the tunnels - and a view of the environment near Myrdal at the end of the Flåmsbana line

The clear view upon arriving in Finse - at the highest rail station in the entire Norwegian railway system

"Cross the dam, avoid the ice on the lake, and follow the markers..." - gateway to glaciers

Snowshoe hike on Hoth - taking time to investigate nearby meteor strikes... while avoiding Wampas

Enjoying tea and shelter at a hiking cabin before catching a closer glimpse of glaciers... until the the wind and weather deicide otherwise...

... for a fast approaching storm suggested that I best not visit the foot of a glacier - further making the return back to the hotel interesting, and the next two days quite grey (with the mountains clearly visible in my first picture from Finse quite shrouded in less-than-perfect conditions)

End of May at the Hotel Finse 1222 - a really great place to stay, while also being given a clear reminder of how powerless one is in the face of weather

A goodbye to Finse, with a simultaneous smile for the experience and a grimace for the wind - as I and a four-legged traveller adapted for the snow trade places on the train

Fortunately Finse had some good people on staff, and the snow was cleared in no time

… of Reunions and Departures

The French coffee was solid - and so was the American company. Photo: Val Bartelme

The room warmed in the morning sun – an odd occurrence given the clouds and rain that can hold Bergen in spring. Fresh coffee brightened things even more – a French roast thoughtfully brought over by Dave and his wife Val at the conclusion of their European journeys, and just before they continued onto the U.S. now that Dave had completed his exchange in France. Both Dave and I had taken the opportunity to spend a term overseas to learn in new environments; he in an institution well-aligned with his engineering roots (thankfully) located in a country that provided ample time for him and Val to take in parts of the Old World, and I in country who’s hydrocarbon extraction practices and natural beauty reawakened my background in ecology. We had tales to trade, and notes to compare – for we had both spent our last winter term quite removed from the U of A campus, and the celebrations that marked a completion for the “Class of 2011.” This was not a lament, but a recognition that we had simply taken a different path – and enjoyed it.

In the mountains surrounding Bergen one can wander on many paths.

A pause to check the distance between Mt. Ulriken and Mt. Fløyen.

We sat and chatted in the living room of our wonderful Norwegian host – Lene, one of four Norwegian students who had spent a winter term at U of Alberta School of Business in 2010 working on their Masters theses related to Canadian oil and gas activities. Now in a strange twist of fate, helped along somewhat by design, we were all collecting new memories in Norway – a realization made even more absurd given that a year ago Dave and I were in China taking part in the 2010 international study tour. We reminisced how we decided to extend those travels beyond the confines of an amazing two-week course, along with Marty (a part-time MBA student) and Val (who joined us later). At the time we felt a need to leave the coast and head inland to perhaps find more of the “real” China, resulting in many an adventure in that truly complex and diverse country. With our timely reunion in Bergen – we were hungry to explore and collect stories yet again.

There be Sea-beasts beneath those dark waters. Come - let us venture forth in our battle-ready longboat and confront mighty Leviathan. Photo: Val Bartelme.

First catch of the day. Photo: Val Bartelme

The curry-stuffed cod had flesh that melted like butter - just fantastic. Photo: Val Bartelme

Lene was gracious enough to give us all a place to stay – and gave us the means to make the most of our time in the Bergen and Stavanger area. A pleasant hike between 2 of the 7 mountains surrounding Bergen, vorspiel and pub-crawling with some fine fired-up Norwegians, delicious fresh fish after an afternoon of lazy casting, and a journey to the precipitous drop at Preikestolen in the stunning Lysefjord region – these are but a few of the memories. However, stories related to thermoregulation via snow banks, enraging Vikings by unintentionally being the lone car in a motorcycle rally, and the merits of knowing how best to punch a fish in the head… those tales are best left for another time, for we need not risk setting back Norwegian/ American/ Canadian diplomatic relations…

The Lysefjord

The Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) - and part of its 600m drop.

"Jumping" pictures - tradition for a certain Norwegian. Photo: Dave Bartelme

From a year ago in Beijing to the present in Bergen – a moment of pause with morning coffee. Somehow in Edmonton we all connected, and enjoyed the regular (and lively) American, Norwegian, and Canadian banter. In China, Dave, Val and I strengthened our friendship through the power of travel – and now here in Norway, they, Lene and I all had a chance to renew our friendship further along all of our respective journeys. A strange twist of events when Dave and I thought about it – but such is life, and we have certainly gained from exploration, both personally and professionally. The chance to re-connect overseas during a weekend of perfect weather is a proper memory to have at the end of this MBA program…  and with bittersweet departures, we’re all ready to continue along our respective paths… with perhaps another reunion somewhere further along the way.

Lene, Val, and Dave - good people, plain and simple. I will see you all again one day.

Witness to a birth – of the Universitetet i Nordland

A backstage moment in the foreground - last practice before the ceremony.

Traditional dress - almost in the spotlight.

... and now that we are all seated comfortably, then let us begin. Photo: UniNordland

The slow procession took place under an uncharacteristically sunny sky, as people of all ages moved towards Mørkvedhallen. A migration with most in business casual / quasi-formal, but with the familiar colour palatte punctuated by accents in the traditional Norwegian costume, or bunad, which quite a few of the women wore. My untrained eye took a few moments to realize there was diversity in the dress – subtle variations in colour and pattern slowly becoming obvious, and I later came to learn that differences spoke of family ties to various regions in Norway. We entered the hall, and were greeted by a gymnasium organized to take on our many winter jackets. A choir assembled on the bleachers, and we were treated to a practice pre-ceremony – their confident voices echoing off the walls. Applause – and then movement through a narrow passage into the hall proper. Darkness – if not for the cascading lights and big screens on either side of the stage, sights which made me think of the moments before an arena show when a much anticipated band would hit the stage and the crowd would explode. However, here everyone found seats with subdued determination, and the steady flow of bodies and loud murmur of conversation continued for some time as the space filled. Finally, a different sound – whispers, and the expected breath of anticipation, followed by the scraping of chairs as everyone stood in respectful silence. His Royal Highness, Crown Prince Haakon had arrived – and the ceremony to officially open the Universitetet i Nordland began.

Sounds of strings at the opening ceremonies - tones both sombre and festive . Photo UniNordland

His Royal Highness, Crown Prince Haakon. Photo: UniNordland

We were seated – and the sound of a violin filled the hall as Susanne Lundeng moved up the centre aisle at a slow pace which matched the beautiful piece she played. Bowing to the Crown Prince seated at the front, she turned and climbed the stairs to join the small orchestra onstage – and the pace changed to a more festive, almost jig-like tempo that would not be out of place at any wedding I’ve attended. Applause – and words from the masters of ceremony and dignitaries present, and more sounds from the stage, and yet more speeches of note. A variation in styles: soprano, traditional, choral, folk music, and electric guitars backed by classical accompaniment –  an eclectic mix: beautiful, quaint, and dissonant. The speeches for the most part serious – but some possessing quite a bit of humour, and always with a hint of pride for the attentive audience of approx. 900.

Minister of Research and Higher Education, Tora Aasland. Photo: UniNordland

Birgitte Christensen - a voice that rose to the heights of the occasion. Photo: UniNordland

As the ceremony progressed, I truly wish I could understand the words were spoken by the Crown Prince, Minister of Research and Higher Education Tora Aasland, and others – but my Norwegian remains embarrassingly limited (and it was impolite to get play-by-play from those next to me). However, through travel and having listened to a variety of languages, I’ve discovered that tone, and the emotion coursing through people around you can say a great deal, even if words spoken or sounds heard are not translated. Laughter, nods, smiles – looks of pride, and firm applause indicated that what was said resonated with the crowd… and regardless of the dress, age, or affiliation, it seemed to me that people around me were genuinely pleased to take part in an event that was, well…  historic. Though the metamorphosis from a University Collage took time and dedicated effort, and admittedly the UiN opened as Norway’s 8th University on January 1st… it is still not a common thing to witness an official birth – and I’m glad I was there.

Frenetic conducting - and a purposely unsettling sound.

The fidgeting girl just ahead of me hinted that even with important ceremonies - there is an expectation of an end. However, she and the Universitetet i Nordland may still share moments in this hall… with perhaps her on stage as a Minister commemorating another anniversary in 50 years time.

... and though not part of the afternoon ceremony, another celebration was held at the Samfunnet – or students building / pub later that night. Two live bands, cheap local Nordlands Pils on tap, and a good crowd hungry for the stage - all made this celebration last well beyond the official opening ceremony.

For a link to additional images, and some translation of what was said – please visit the University of Nordland website for their coverage of the opening ceremony:

http://bifrost.hibo.no/index.php?ID=12848&lang=eng&displayitem=3987&module=news

… of Nature and Risk

Unfortunately, this is not a view of the Lofoten Islands as was promised - though this near-pristine view of Landegode Island remains spectacular, as does the countryside on the way to the beaches at nearby Mjelle.

Sights and smells along Norwegian waters - sensory triggers which awaken fond memories of Canada's welcoming East Coast.

Lofoten – land of mountainous island scenery viewed in awe by world travelers… is something… I admittedly… have not yet experienced. The long-awaited destination for the 5^th Annual Arctic Dialogue is forever linked to disappointment in the hearts of many attendees – for a storm took up residence and brusquely suggested that it be best if we reconsider our travel plans. I have seen hopes delayed and destroyed by weather before, and the forced change in logistics provided a not-so-subtle reminder of the reality of working in the North. Plans (though well-developed and with contingencies) ultimately remain subject to forces we attempt to “control” via some measurement of probability and consequence – and we do so with varying degrees of success. Appreciation of Nature’s moods, and the nature of risk remained on my mind for the duration of the proceedings (which continued at the University of Nordland) – and these thoughts linger still.

Though the weather may not be easy to predict - the tides come and go with more certainty.

Simple and effective technology - applied in beautiful surroundings.

Complex systems almost always fail in complex ways. This statement was made by the Board that investigated Columbia’s disintegration during re-entry, and was echoed in the Federal report reviewing the Deepwater Horizon explosion. The aftermath of the Deepwater Horizon/ Macondo/ BP/ Gulf spill permeated discussions in the Arctic Dialogue, and regardless of one’s perspective, the tragedy had an impact on us all. We were fortunate enough to have a presentation from Fran Ulmer, who was part of the Presidential Committee charged with assessing the accident (full report: Deep Water, The Gulf Oil Disaster and the Future of Offshore Drilling, Report to the President, National Commission on the BP Deepwater Horizon Oil Spill and Offshore Drilling, January 2011). I could easily write pages on the sobering reality check that I received while listening to her explanation of what happened, and the massive effort required to respond to the accident. I’ll instead present four (of seven) conclusions summarized at the beginning of the report, as they are relevant to Arctic development (emphasis added):

• The explosive loss of the Macondo well could have been prevented
• Deepwater energy exploration and production, particularly at the frontiers of experience, involve risks for which neither industry nor government has been adequately prepared, but for which they can and must be prepared in the future.
• Technology, laws and regulations, and practices for containing, responding to, and cleaning up spills lag behind the real risks associated with deepwater drilling
• Scientific understanding of environmental conditions in sensitive environments in deep Gulf waters, along the region’s coastal habitats, and in areas proposed for more drilling, such as the Arctic, is inadequate

A meditation on scale.

We are not prepared for a large-scale incident in the Arctic. This candid commentary took me aback, especially as my bias leads me to expect such a damming statement from those with a non-industry background. Others of varied international affiliations agreed, for put simply – the statement is true. Vladimir Trifonov (Chevron Neftegaz) also reminded us of the Kursk tragedy – for though years of Arctic experience existed, no sophisticated rescue techniques were readily available, and this relatively shallow-water accident in the Barents Sea cost 118 lives. Though human error and failures in technology result in accidents – training and advances in technology undeniably continue to improve safety. Even my rudimentary understanding of the proposed Shtokman gas development in the Barents (for example) makes me pause and give respect to how Arctic exploration and extraction challenges are met – for I have to admit it is thoroughly amazing.

However, with the understanding that companies have different cultures, and after taking technological expertise, capacity, and stringent health and safety requirements into account, the scale of the Deepwater accident must instill some apprehension – for there were clear failures and inadequacies in technology, operations, regulations, and response capabilities. Though initially chaotic, the peak of the response required the coordination of over 45,000 people from a variety of agencies utilizing civilian, industrial, and military equipment. I can’t help but wonder, having looked onto Northern waters from the decommissioned Cape Young DEW line site, how one would mobilize a sufficient force quickly and efficiently enough to save lives and prevent substantial environmental damages  – especially given that the population of the Northwest Territories is 43,554 as of January 2011 (with another 33,303 in Nunavut). Macondo, which took 11 lives, was truly a large-scale event: 87-day blowout, 5 months for the well to be officially sealed, an estimated 4.9mb released, and an estimated price tag of 40 billion (note: estimates provided vary by source selected). I will not attempt to quantify the social or ecological costs – though I believe that “insignificant” is not an appropriate term to use.

A stroll on the beach - avec practical Northern fashion.

Sand, surf, and snow. Pleasant and inviting - but cold and uncomfortable if not prepared.

Harsh and vulnerable – a phrase that encapsulates the Arctic. Extreme and crippling temperatures, constant threats from icing, never-ending darkness and mind-altering remoteness – all the while in a place that is also paradoxically described as fragile.  The Arctic – and High Arctic especially, is an environment that elicits many striking comments regarding the demanding conditions one works in, conditions I can only imagine – and to those who brave them I give my full respect. Add to this physical reality a slew of regulations and standards that need to be coordinated among Arctic countries, international companies, and a myriad of contractors – and life is harsh indeed.

The holy grail of Pan-Arctic standards will undeniably help in the clarification and communication of risk, and harmonize efforts among different players. An example we were provided with was ISO 19906:2010 which: “specifies requirements and provides recommendations and guidance for the design, construction, transportation, installation and removal of offshore structures, related to the activities of the petroleum and natural gas industries in arctic and cold regions.” Though amendments are still required – it is a start, and the movement towards “standardized standards” will continue because of a shared desire and need to prevent accidents, and to manage risks as best possible. Erling Sæbo (DNV Eurasia) also provided us with a passing idea of the consequences of infrequent incidents possessing a high impact… and offered a simple equation to help us conceptualize risk: Risk = Probability of an Incident x Consequence of the Incident

What risk is acceptable however, is a question that Arctic Nations and Peoples still need to answer – for they will face the brunt of the consequences. Review must occur with the utmost care given the serious concerns regarding how resilient/ resistant Arctic systems would be in the wake of a large-scale event such as Macondo, and consideration of full protection of sensitive areas must be part of the discussion. Though infrequent, large-scale events test the limits of preparedness, and we have sufficient data to show very clearly the consequences of lax precautionary planning – consequences I’d rather not see in the North. However, there is a high probability we will see development in the High North sometime in the future… and unfortunately, there is also a certain possibility that tragedies will be seen again as well… and – so it goes (with my apologies to Vonnegut).

A leisurely Sunday bathed in welcome sunshine - sightseeing in the fine company of Russian, Norwegian, and French Canadian Ph.D students.

A pause along the trail for a "Hinterland Who's Who" moment. Evidence of Nature's tobogganing champions - otters. One of those little details that can be missed if lacking a certain perspective.

Interests in the Arctic differ, and we have the possibility to learn from one another’s perspectives and gain a better appreciation of risks and consequences. What we consider as acceptable risk differs depending on what position we come from – though our assessment may change with more data, and with time (especially as Arctic ice conditions continue to change dramatically). The concept of “acceptable risk” still claws at me post-conference, and I fail at finding an satisfactory answer – though I choose to concentrate on the shred of hope that we can become more proactive and precautionary, rather than admitting to the brutish reality that it is only through catalyzing cataclysmic events that we change… our human curse. We know large-scale accidents in the High Arctic are a real concern for the future– and I’d rather look towards a future with debate, collaboration, and precaution, rather than one where we collectively review another preventable tragedy and wonder why we didn’t learn from our mistakes… yet again.

The weather cooperates, and recent memories of the cancelled Arctic Dialogue trip to Lofoten fade - even more so after a diner with pleasant circum-Arctic company, and some very, very tasty reindeer.

I’d like to thank all those who made the 5th Annual Arctic Dialogue 2011 possible, and also able to weather the storm: our hosts, organizers and support staff, industry sponsors, and all the delegates from diverse backgrounds who traveled long distances to give their presentations. I’m especially grateful for having the opportunity to have conversations with a number of the panelists, and appreciate their candid comments and insights. Though the time was short – and my desire for further discussion and debate remains, I’m glad to have met others with an deep interest in the future of our Arctic.

Reflection in the company of reindeer

First contact - with the not-so-wily Kvalvika reindeer "herd."

Kvalvika – the mythic land of the “self-guided reindeer-safari” is an epic 10–min bus ride from downtown Bodø. Not exactly strenuous, the “safari” – (or rather short hike up and around rocky outcrops) made for a very pleasant Saturday morning climb which provided a fantastic view of the wind-blown sea and dark skies obscuring Landegode Island. Fresh track led to our quarry, who lay in a slightly sheltered area feeding rather nonchalantly – and though with raised heads they acknowledged our presence, they really didn’t seem to care as they soon continued to nibble at forage that clung tenaciously to the rocks. Full immersion in the moment made the road and houses below far, far away, and the ear tags on individuals in the “herd” of five semi-domestic ungulates disappear completely. For a brief moment I was brought to another time and place – where the reindeer’s cousins, the caribou (boreal and barren-ground) occupied a great deal of my time and effort. This was not the wilds of the NWT, but I felt familiarity in the moment of quiet pause – sheltered from the forceful sea winds, and still completely enveloped by the rapidly changing weather. A meditative moment amidst the blowing snow – and a reminder that the frenetic pace of an MBA does not necessarily allow for the clearest thought. Reflection – and having the ability and the time to do so is important… and this is often forgotten.

... and the Canadian adage: "if you don't like the weather wait 5 minutes" applies yet again in Bodø.

The Ides of March bring the creeping realization that this international experience, like all things, will come to an end. As such, my thoughts wander in the space between what I have gained from coming overseas – to what I may still gain from my time in Norway. Constantly in the background, there is the haunting call asking what my MBA experience has brought overall, for my exchange does not allow me to share that question or convocation ceremonies and celebrations in-person with friends in April – as I will still be here. Thoughts of where my MBA will lead professionally also appear, for though the experience has been rewarding I believe my return to student life has run it’s course – and that a return to work will be most welcome. With only three courses to occupy my time I can fully explore such thoughts… a situation quite different than battle with 5-6 courses that bludgeon one with regular requirements and expose one to the ugly reality of time management – a completely necessary skill honed via a valid “trial–by-fire” method. Though having the ability to rapidly and efficiently address “crisis” situations and assimilate and assess information quickly is invaluable, there is also much to be said for the “luxury” of reflection –for deeper knowledge and understanding suffer if one is focused purely on day-to-day survival in an academic, or professional environment.

A substantial part of the day-to-day routine if you have hooves - made much easier when not stalked by wolves.

The time I have for reflection is much appreciated, as the influx of knowledge here certainly continues. Petter Nore (Director, Oil for Development / the Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation) recently presented in a Geopolitics of Petroleum and Natural Gas lecture, and displayed a depth of knowledge and experience which provided a sobering reality check to our ongoing discussion of hydrocarbons. He spoke on how the Oil for Development (OfD) initiative utilizes a broad approach in assisting partner countries upon the country’s request, building on the petroleum sector development assistance that Norway has provided since the early 1980s. The absolute need for sound resource, revenue, and environmental management was highlighted in the presentation, and it was interesting to see the suite of options offered from the “Norwegian perspective.” However, one of the key reminders was that there is no “magic bullet” solution with respect to safeguarding good governance in the petroleum sector, and that though Norway may be regarded highly, the ease with which approaches can be utilized certainly differs on a case-by-case basis. Though Norway’s Petroleum Fund is something which countries wish to emulate, it has taken 30+ years to achieve – in a country that had the good fortune of having resources discovered by others, and then having the foresight to manage them with Norway’s future in mind. Mr. Nore made it very clear that though a country may want a quick solution provided by the “Norwegian perspective” – they must think very carefully about what they can realistically achieve, and how best to do so.

Not exactly an aggregation of 30,000 barren-ground caribou, but still a very pleasant sight while haivng tea.

The combination of this being the last term of my MBA, being overseas, and having time to sit and simply think – while being surrounded by a landscape that brings me back to the life I led immediately prior to starting my MBA journey, makes me appreciate how things have turned out in the way that they have. When watching reindeer feed among wind-swept rocks, or craning my neck to catch cascading curtains of northern lights roll past Ursa Major – weighing the costs / benefits of the MBA program (including this exchange), or being overly self-critical when evaluating my performance course-wise… these are concerns that are far, far away. The thoughts that do remain revolve around how my new knowledge has been gained – and how an experience such as this exchange in Norway continues to provide me with insights professionally and personally… insights that will take time, and some more reflection, to understand and appreciate fully.

With knees clicking, their never-ending wandering and feeding continues... (Photo credit: Andrea Flynn)

... until like in the legends of old, they go into the Earth.

My next entry will follow a journey to the Lofoten Islands, and the 5th Annual Arctic Dialogue and Study Sea Tour. This gathering of High North players, as well as the mock Arctic Council debates with my classmates is something that I’ve been looking forward to for some time  – and I trust that the experience will give me even more to think about…. as I discover new landscapes in Nordland and accept the ever-changing weather.

Aurora borealis on the slippery walk down to our local pub - an other-worldly and hauntingly beautiful display everyone should see at least once . (Photo credit: Melissa Checkowy)

… the lengthening of the day, and the start of exploration

A grey day’s hike up to the mouth of the Svarthammar Cave near Fauske.

As the days grow longer and the shift from near-perpetual night to midnight sun continues, I’ve begun to venture forth a touch – though strangely enough back into the darkness. Recently, a number of students (international and Norwegian) took part in a short caving excursion planned by the Student Welfare Organization (then led by Nordland Turselskap guides). We were given a choice if we wished to join the “rough” group, who would break trail up to the cave and explore more narrow passages – and without blinking the other Canadians and I jumped at the opportunity. This shared appreciation for adventure in “the Nature” was also shown by our Norwegian companions, both in their interest leading/taking part in a caving experience, and through their respectful tone when it came to cave etiquette. In a darkness violated by beams which illuminated flowing ice sculptures and cut through suspended particles our footfalls had raised from the cave floor – I found myself gravitating towards the small elements of natural beauty in the cave, and further found myself drawn into conversation with Norwegians about their perspectives on Norway’s beloved natural resources. Talk flowed, and commentary on the future of oil/gas in this country arose – for “sustainable development” is certainly not a static concept in Norway, and very real debate is underway over the future of some areas… something I admittedly was not expecting.

Minute beauty.

Alien and exquisite miniature natural sculptures.

Small crystalline forms superficially not unlike corals you may find while diving (though if memory serves, I was warmer then).

From comments echoing in the bowels of a cave, discussion lubricated by pints in the din of a pub, to coffee-fueled conversation in lecture – the Lofoten islands are on the minds of Norwegians, and inspire quick debate for a number of valid reasons. The first thing people mention is how absolutely beautiful and unique Lofoten is – and this may not be just a local bias, for the area does have a chance to bid for UNESCO World Heritage status (it can be found on the tentative list). Lofoten is also home to the worlds largest cold water coral reef, killer and sperm whales, sizable bird colonies, and substantial fish stocks (cod and herring), and notably cod spawning areas – some factors important not just from an ecological perspective, but also from the perspective of a fisheries industry which depends on a stable resource for it’s continued sustainability (concerns Canadians should be familiar with given the mis-management and subsequent collapse of east-coast cod stocks, and also via a recent independent report recommending substantial cuts to the Newfoundland fishing fleet – a report currently contested by the Fisheries Minister).

Return from a tighter passage in the cave, in which we turned off our lamps to see if any light from a sliver to the surface was visible. It wasn’t – but to be in a cave with no light and surrounded by others in close silence is a nice memory I have collected.

Norway’s prosperity is undeniably based on hydrocarbons, and the country’s long-term planning with regards to their development and the management of revenue (commonly referred to as “The Petroleum Fund” – all 400+ billion of it). Now, as concerns about sustaining production levels become very real, eyes turn to the potential reserves in the Lofoten area as total petroleum production falls on the Norwegian Continental Shelf – in addition to pressures from local communities for northern economic spin-offs from development. From the energy sector’s perspective development in Lofoten strategically makes complete sense, because there is a high probability of success, and development there is in line with Norway’s staggered hydrocarbon development process. However, the political debate is intensifying in Norway’s coalition government, and involves heated discussion not just in the Storting (Norwegian legislature) – but between the ecologically/economically affected northern counties and the government south in Oslo. Lastly, a recently released report on development in Lofoten (Report No. 8 to the Storting (2005–2006) Integrated Management of the Marine Environment of the Barents Sea and the Sea Areas off the Lofoten Islands) adds fuel to the debate, for while some view the report as the next required step in the regulated review process, others view it one step closer to the opening of Lofoten for hydrocarbon development and production.

View of the cave entrance from “The Keyhole” – a small opening at the end of an ice-filled passage well above the snowy ground below.

Near the end of March I have a chance to visit Lofoten. I and others are fortunate enough to be required to take part in a mock Arctic Council hearing as part of our course requirements – and I am very, very much looking forward to going. This isn’t just to see the area first-hand, but also because of the opportunity to meet representatives from Arctic Council countries (including Canada), and I’m sure the formal (and informal) conversations will be fascinating. Many people I talk to (including the children of industry looking for work in the oil and gas sector) would personally prefer not to have Lofoten opened, but reluctantly admit that it will likely happen – due to the resource reality Norway faces in the near future, as well as the overarching geopolitical concerns regarding energy security. I don’t expect clear answers on my trip to near-mythical Lofoten – but I certainly expect to be challenged during the journey there as well as my continuing exploration here in Bodø. With time,  I hope to understand Norwegian perspectives more – as darkness slowly fades, and light and the days continue to grow.

Emerging from the cave ready for the hike back down, though failing to encounter any of the major species of trolls during the excursion – the search for Ringlefinches, Tosserlads, Rinetossers and Jotnars will continue.